Today

Fiji is often described as a tropical paradise with hundreds of perfectly picturesque islands to escape to, but it's on the mainland of Viti Levu where the real interest in Fijian culture lies.

Deliberately choosing to avoid the popular tourist spots of Castaway Island, Beachcomber Island and the Yasawas can give visitors a much better insight into how the country works.

Arriving at Nadi airport, I was greeted in the arrival lounge by a group of four Fijian men in flowery shirts and grass hula skirts, singing perfectly in tune and strumming ukuleles.

This kind of welcome would surely be unheard of in most Westernised countries, but as it was, each and every arrival at the airport walked past with a smile on their face – this was not going to be your average holiday.

The Fijians are a friendly bunch. Most of them are very happy to be approached, and listen with interest when you tell them where you are from and what it is like. They are even more animated when selling the lifestyle of their own country, and take great pride in their nation. A slogan from one local which stuck throughout my stay was: 'Fiji – the way the world should be.'

There is of course the issue of over-friendliness in some cases. If you have something they want – your money – be prepared for a little hassle. Fiji is generally non-threatening though, and tourists can expect the same treatment in many popular areas around the world which might be deemed 'poorer' than the western world.

As a white westerner walking down a street, your difference is obviously noted. While some simply stare, others will pull you towards their market stalls, offer you a 'good price' on somewhere to stay, or tell you they can get you the best 'marawana' the island has to offer.

Haggling is a way of life. Never pay the first price quoted for anything at a market stall or even for a taxi (it is always best to arrange a price before you travel to avoid an unfair deal). The variety of food on offer in Fiji is vast, with a plethora of fresh fruit and vegetables, and of course fish. Prices are pittance when compared to British supermarkets.

Travelling around Fiji has to be viewed as an adventure, otherwise it is easy to get frustrated. Local buses can be cramped and slow - it took over 5 hours to do a 200 km journey along the south coast between Nadi and the capital Suva. However, they did show the a film of Harry Potter on the bus.

Some backpackers choose to hitch hike in small vans that also carry locals between towns. Although this may at first seem dangerous, it is actually a method of transport that many locals use to travel between work and home.

The number of hostels and hotels are growing in Fiji. While relatively built up areas such as Suva, Lautoka and Nadi do have some pristine accommodation, real luxuries can be found in hidden beach resorts on the mainland, such as the Korolevu (Coral Coast). In this way visitors can enjoy a beach getaway without having to pay the comparatively extortionate prices of the more popular 'paradise' islands.

If you happen to stumble on a church services, my advice would be to stop and listen for a while. In Lautoka, I happened to walk past an evening service on a Sunday, where literally hundreds of locals were spilling out on to the streets because the church had reached full capacity. The hymns they sang were some of the most powerful I've ever had the pleasure of hearing.

In short, travelling round the mainland of Fiji gives you a much better insight into the country than staying for a week on a luxurious island. You get a chance to see first hand how the local population work and live in a more 'real' environment, and this is what I found so appealing.