The British country house hotel has undergone a dramatic makeover in recent years, Visit Britain's Annabelle Thorpe explains.

"The British country house hotel used to be a very particular thing. Afternoon tea in bone china cups, cocktails at seven, posh frocks and kippers for breakfasts. Guests would recline languidly on floral sofas, backed by lush velvet curtains: undeniably classy but rather formal. However, things are changing and these days Georgian manor houses hide cool modern design and imposing stately homes offer a refreshingly informal welcome.

Take Dogmersfield Park, a Georgian country house in 500 acres of glorious countryside under 50 miles south-west of London, which opened this spring after being given a new look and renamed the Four Seasons Hampshire. The hotel combines high style with an informal feel; lush floral displays drip scent over antique sofas and highly-polished tables but the opulence is mixed with informality. Wellington boots are lined up by the front door so guests can explore the stunning grounds, and the restaurant offers hamburgers and fish and chips alongside more exotic dishes.

It's easy to imagine that country house hotels all tend to be similar, but in fact most tend to be very individual. Ynyshir Hall in Powys, Wales, was once owned by Queen Victoria, and is now owned by an artist and his wife who have given the house a unique feel. Each bedroom is named after a different artist, filled with antique beds, Welsh pottery and rugs and individually styled. Gourmets will love Ynyshir; the Michelin-starred restaurant serves up succulent seafood from nearby Cardigan Bay, lamb and venison from the Welsh mountains and tangy, locally produced cheeses.

Country houses tend to come in all shapes and sizes too; one of the smallest is The Samling, with just ten bedrooms, a romantic hideaway tucked away in the jade and purple landscapes of England's Lake District. Although not a country house in the traditional sense, the food and service is top-notch; breakfast is served to your room and any number of romantic possibilities - a hilltop picnic, a gallop across the mountains on horseback, a sleepy afternoon in a boat - can be organised. The poet, William Wordsworth, spent time at The Samling, lured by the glorious views of Lake Windermere. Book the romantic attic room, Pym, for views across the treetops to the glistening lake.

Head further north for a Scottish spin on the country house experience. Boath House, in Nairn, near Inverness, is a glorious country seat, built in 1825 in Regency style, with streams to stroll by, lakes to fish in, and woodlands for early morning walks. The house itself, meticulously refurbished as a labour of love by the owners, has colonnaded corridors, roaring log fires and delightfully comfy sofas may prove impossible to leave, although the surrounding Scottish Highlands countryside, whisky distilleries and castles are well worth exploring.

If you fancy a truly indulgent weekend, opt for a country house hotel with a spa, of which the number is growing steadily. Chewton Glen, one of the UK's best-loved country houses, has a newly-expanded spa, complete with hydrotherapy pool, aromatherapy saunas and steam rooms, and a spa restaurant. Slip into matching dressing gowns and indulge in a Heavenly Gingerlily Body Cocoon or Float Away Foot Therapy, while men can be pampered with a juniper, orange and rosemary oil Equilibrium Facial or a Shiatswe body massage. Chewton Glen is surrounded by the lush landscapes of Southern England's New Forest, recently declared a National Park and perfect for romantic walks, with lots of picturebook villages and cosy country pubs for lunch stops.

If you like your countryside more dramatic, head to the rolling Yorkshire Dales for a weekend of pampering at Swinton Hall, near Masham, which reopened its spa in the spring, after a thorough refurbishment. Alongside more conventional treatments is the chance to do a two-hour massage course with your partner - learn how to give relaxing back massages to each other, before lying back and receiving a full pampering massage from the therapist. Swinton Park holds true to the image of a country house - floral print sofas, lush fabrics, antique furniture but with a 21st century to service - informal but flawless. For a truly romantic break book the three-storey turret room, with circular rooms and glorious views.

Similarly traditional is Lucknam Park, close to elegant Bath, approached by a breathtakingly elegant mile-long drive, lined with 400 lime and beech trees. The hotel can even organise a guide to take you on a tour around the beautiful city. The best way to explore the surrounding Wiltshire countryside is on horseback, and Lucknam Park has an equestrian centre that can offer gentle rides, or long, romantic hacks across the hills.

A little further west, in the heart of the Dorset Downs, lies Summer Lodge, an atmospheric Georgian country house, which underwent a major facelift recently and upgraded from comfortable accommodation to something really special. Stay in a Coach House room and you have your own conservatory to potter in and out of; all rooms come with state-of-the-art fixtures and fittings - plasma screen TV's, DVD’s - but best of all is to stay in Ivy Cottage, which has its own alfresco hot tub in its private garden.

For a more contemporary take on a country house stay, opt for The Grove, voted the Automobile Association's Hotel of the Year for 2005. Just half an hour from London, it's great for guests who are lively. Aside from sightseeing in town and indulging in spa treatments, visitors can tee-off on the Kyle Phillips-designed golf course, which hosted the World Golf Championships in 2006. The Grove's design is cutting edge, with plenty of modern art and sculpture scattered through the house.

Some may have a traditional ambience, others a distinctly 21st century feel, but all of Britain's top-notch country house hotels offer the chance of a weekend that is deliciously indulgent; the softest beds, the cosiest lounges, food that is mouth-watering. Best of all, each is surrounded by lush green hills or purple mountains, azure lakes or crystal streams - the very best of the great British countryside."

For more hotels and other ideas for enjoying Britain in style, see VisitBritain's website www.visitbritain.com/goodliving.