999Today food critic Natasha Heard reviews the delightful Boxwood Café, part of the luxurious Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, London.
Sumptuous? Elegant? Even exquisite? I'm sitting here trying to think of the words that best describe the atmosphere and cuisine at the Boxwood Café and nothing comes close to describing how wonderful the food really is (like I've never eaten before) and how welcoming and friendly the staff are. Yes, my experience of the Boxwood was that good; and no, words do not come close but I shall do my best…
On entry, my three dining companions and I were led to a spacious spot on the lower level, being warmly greeted by every member of staff we encountered on the way. They were all kind and looked as though they were pleased to be there and taking pride in their job, which enhanced the relaxed atmosphere.
During our meal, our drinks were being filled up just as we were finishing them, there was never too long a gap between courses and we were regularly being asked if everything was OK with the food. Some might say that too much attention can be a bit suffocating when you're enjoying your meal but I can't say it was too much, I like to be made to feel special, and that's certainly how the staff at the Boxwood Café made me feel.
Natasha Heard: "The whole experience couldn't have been bettered from the exceptional food to the friendly staff to the scented toilet paper!"
I must admit, I didn't really have any preconceptions of the Gordon Ramsay-owned restaurant; portion size wasn't really on my mind, I tried not to worry if it might be expensive, no, I thought, I'll take it as it comes. I needn't have worried, the portions were perfect; any less and I may have been wondering when the rest was coming, but any more and I would have been too full for my next course, the food was wonderfully rich. In relation to the expense, I personally feel that the quality of the food, wine and service is definitely worth the money you pay for it. I wanted to experience as much as the restaurant could offer, so all three courses it was for me.
From the wide range of treats available on the menu, I chose the Jerusalem artichoke soup, roasted shallots and foie gras to start with. This lovely, bubbly dish was poured for me at the table (it’s the small things I appreciate), the texture was smooth and not too watery, just the right consistency, the flavours were not too strong and the small portion was rich enough for a starter.
To follow this, I decided on the red wine braised shoulder of Dedham Vale beef with curly kale, parmesan mash and black truffle, sounds nice doesn't it? Two words: Absolutely and Gorgeous. I can still taste the intense flavours of the truffle and red wine that oozed into the succulent chunk of the beef, the beef so tender, it fell apart the minute it came into contact with my fork. The less powerful flavours of the creamy mash and soft kale complimented the beef perfectly to make the best dish I have ever eaten.
To finish off this wonderful meal, and as I am a chocoholic, I decided to go for the Valrhona hot chocolate fondue, marshmallows, biscotti and bananas. Dipping my assortment of treats (including a selection of berries) into the smooth, creamy and rich chocolate was certainly the best end to the meal I could have had. I certainly took my time eating as I wanted to savour every aspect of my experience of the cuisine here and I liked the fact that our table was never being rushed to complete our meal for another sitting, as you can encounter in a lot of other restaurants.
Overall, my thoughts are that, no, it is not cheap, however, you pay for what you get, it is brilliant value for money, everything I ate was unbeatable and out of this world. The whole experience couldn't have been bettered from the exceptional food to the friendly staff to the scented toilet paper! My advice is to go, and as soon as possible, so that you don't miss out.
- Boxwood Cafe, Berkeley Hotel, Knightsbridge, London SW1 (020 7235 1010). A meal for two, excluding drinks and service, costs £55.




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